You're coming to Egypt - planning
to see what remains of the cradle of civilisation and some of the Ancient
Wonders of the World. For some it is their dream come true, their trip of a
lifetime. For some it is the beginning or end of a search or journey. For some
it is just a stop along the way, a side-trip they may as well take because they
are passing through or on a business trip. Whatever the reason - you are here
because you are meant to be here at this time. Don't take it lightly, make the
most of it and plan your trip as if you are never coming back - you probably
won't (not because you may not want to, but there is so much more to see in the
world!)
First time I came to Egypt was on a 7 night's cruise on the Nile. I had no
intention of going to Cairo or seeing the Pyramids and I was on a tight spending
budget.....but I listened to the Guide
on the cruise when he gave us little talks on the benefits of an "optional
extra" trip to the Pyramids. It meant we got up around 4am, took a breakfast
box with us to the airport and flew to Cairo. There we were met by a lovely
guide who took us directly to the Citadel. My first impression of Cairo - I
couldn't take it at all....the number of cars, the speed of the traffic, the
pedestrians all over the place dodging traffic, the buildings, the colours, the
smells... all amounted to sensory overload.
I don't remember what we did next, I presume we ate lunch at some stage but have
no recollections of it. All I remember is that there were about 5 of us, I
think - dying from heat exhaustion even though the bus must have had
air-condition - we were on the Giza Plateau. 3 of absolutely refused to get out
of the bus, much to the dismay of the guide - we just wanted to get to the hotel
and collapse. 2 went into one of the two smaller pyramids - one of whom came
back with the guide while the other one, Patricia, got lost.
Good for her - Patricia was really interested and wanted to see the Sphinx. So
she risked facing our wrath and did her own thing. Our guide was crying because
her manager was screaming down the phone that she was late at our next
destination - don't remember where that was supposed to be either. Next thing I
remember (after the return of our lost friend) was going to bed in the
Cosmopolitan Hotel - 6pm and without dinner. I slept straight through the night
and have no idea what we did the next day!
The moral of my true story - the trip to Cairo was totally wasted on me and it
cost me quite a bit of money. My time would have been better spent relaxing on
the last two days of the cruise, spending my money on something I liked and
returning home to Ireland refreshed, relaxed, satisfied and ready to face the
real world again after my fantastic cruise.
First of all, everyone you meet here (because you are most likely not going to
meet ANYONE who is not involved in the tourist industry in some way) has their
own agenda, which is to sell you as much as they can, accommodation, tours,
guides, transport, souvenirs, even friendship. Egyptians are lovely, friendly,
smiling people and unless you have your own agenda firmly in place you will fall
in with someone else's agenda before you know it.
So have a quality rather than quantity driven time in Egypt.
Make it your intention that you see and experience what is meant for you and
trust that it will happen. You will read about places and just "know" you want
to see those particular temples or tombs more than other ones. If you are on a
budget spend your money on a good guide and safe transport to your priority
sites instead of trying to cram in too many places at "cheap" prices or without
a guide. You can see about half the sites in Egypt without a guide because
there may not be much detail left to explain on the walls etc.
Lightweight clothing that you can
layer is the best...then you can dress up or down according to the
weather. Due to the heat most tourists dress casually day and night time
but if you plan on having dinner in places like the Winter Palace in
Luxor you will need to dress more formally.
Comfortable shoes for walking -
The Valley of the Kings and some of the temples have uneven ground and
sometimes you have to walk over sand - hot grains of sand in your
sandals is not nice!
Bikinis and skimpy summer wear is
ok for pool side and beach, but not on the street, dining room or
otherwise in public.
From middle of May to end of August you will mostly want to wear as little
as possible - but be careful if you burn easily, many people get sunburn
while in the pool or on the Nile (people forget that it is not only the sun
that burns you but also the rapid heating and cooling of the skin when there
is a cooling wind blowing) November to end of February the nights can be
cold (in comparison to the day) so you may want a cardigan or sweat top at
night.
Over the years it
appears to be more acceptable for female tourists to wear skimpy or
revealing clothing - short strappy tops or shorts in the streets but women
travellers should be aware that showing your cleavage, legs and even upper
arms gives the local population the impression that you are promiscuous and
in all probability...looking for a man and/or sex. More women here are
wearing the veil/headscarf and the Abaya (long dress, sometimes black) than
ever before because it is being promoted as the way a "good woman" dresses.
In Egypt everyone is judged by their street clothing and instant conclusions
are drawn as to whether you are rich, poor, good (modest) or bad
(promiscuous) - this applies to locals and tourists alike. Tourists are
largely responsible for how the muslim/arab world views the West and are in
a sense all ambassadors from their home countries.
Bringing a pair of
non-slip flip-flops
for wearing in the bathrooms and wet-rooms is a good idea for safety and
hygiene reasons.
Wide-brimmed hat and a sweat band
would not go amiss to keep sweat out of your eyes, especially in the tombs,
which are very hot and humid. A cotton neck scarf which you can wet and wear
or one of those "cool ties" you can buy online works wonders in helping you
feel more comfortable - it cools your blood as it circulates. Wrapping a wet
cotton shawl or turban around your head (men or women) is a good way to keep
cool. Men often forget to bring caps or hats with them (you can buy them
here but your sightseeing might start before you have a chance to do so)
Don't bring jewellery such as rings
that you value or prize highly if you think your fingers will swell in the
heat as you may end up leaving them in hotels when you leave.
MONEY - CURRENCY
The currency in Egypt is the Egyptian pound (LE).
Don't change your money before you come to Egypt...you will get a better
rate here. Euros, dollars and sterling are accepted (notes not coins) but
your money will go much further if you change it to Egyptian pounds - best
places to exchange money are the currency exchange shops (lots everywhere)
or the bank - not good idea to change at reception desks in hotels or when
paying in restaurants or shops as you will not get as good a rate.
CREDIT CARDS - visa
and mastercard are accepted in most hotels and restaurants but because of
the high fees charged for processing the cards most businesses prefer to be
paid in cash.
ATM
machines are in all the major hotels and outside banks in the
major towns in Egypt. Putting your money into your credit card before
you come and drawing it out at the ATM's is a good idea (provided you
are in credit with your card!) if you are worried about losing it.
Ask your hotel which are the safe ATM's.
Sometimes the ATM's say they
cannot contact your service provider (or some such message) and still
take the money from your account. If this happens you, keep a check on
your account for the next few days (having noted the date and EXACT time
the incident happened) and ensure the money has not been taken from your
account. If it has you should go to the bank and tell them what
happened. Ask them for a photo copy of their ATM roll showing your
transaction was cancelled (this is why you need the exact time you tried
the machine). You will have a lot of trouble trying to get your money
back from your bank if you go home without this photo copy.
Take time to study the Egyptian
money...especially the 50 piastre and the 50LE note...tourists can be
prone to mistakes here! 50 piastre is half an egyptian pound. When
buying something hold out the money to the trader but keep hold of it
until you see the amount of change you are getting and if you are giving
a 50LE note SAY "here you are...50 pounds"...if you are making a mistake
he will tell you pretty quick! And you will see he is right and not be
wondering afterwards if you have been diddled. The 1LE and 10LE are kind
of similar also if you are not used to the notes.
When people come up to you in the street
showing you euros, sterling or foreign COINS they are not
begging....they are asking if you can change the coins to either
Egyptian or Foreign NOTES, because they cannot
exchange the coins is banks. The coins are
given to them in tips by tourists who don't know they are no good to the
Egyptians.
There is a 1LE coin which you have to examine
carefully because it is very very similar to the 1 Euro coin.
WHAT TO TAKE WITH YOU
LUGGAGE
- I recommend travelling to Egypt
with as little luggage as possible and put everything of value into your
Carry-On Bag. I don't just mean jewellery/money. I mean whatever you need to
get you through the first 24 hours at least in Egypt....definitely your
medicines, one change of clothes, lap-top, toiletries and any electrical
equipment, cameras etc - they are expensive here. I have had too many guests
arrive at Mara House without their luggage and oddly enough most of those
arrived on after-midnight flights. This usually turns up intact within 24
hours.
LOST LUGGAGE
My last guest who lost his luggage had great difficulty in getting it
back. He finally go one bag the day before he left Luxor and the second bag
the day he arrived back in Cairo. Both bags had EVERYTHING of value to him
stolen, including (believe it or not) ALL his T-shirts! ??? I don't believe
he would have got his half empty bags back at all had it not been for the
trouble we caused with various managers in the chain of command in Cairo -
those in Luxor were a disaster!
If you do lose your luggage
- do not be gentle and accepting at the airport when you report it......you
need to send out the message that you are going to be difficult about this.
If you have to go again to the airport to collect it - go through the bag in
front of the officer and if anything is missing fill out the claim form
there and then. Paperwork is everything here and if someone has taken
something from your bag you have a better chance of getting it back if you
do the paperwork.
I advise a max of three changes of clothes, your beach wear, toiletries,
camera/video/hairdryer. There are excellent 1 day laundry facilities on the
ships and hotels and it is most likely you will be surprised at the bargains
in everything (even western fashion if you are going to Cairo), to be found
here. Most people end up having to buy extra bags to take their bargains
home! So save your space for your bargain buys and an extra fold-up bag
would not go amiss. Neither would a water bottle holder with shoulder or
hand strap (and if it can keep water cool - even better!)
"Go-Everywhere With
Me"
This bag should contain your bottle of water,
Antinal tablets, sanitary wipes or spray, anti-histamine cream,
insect-repellant, sun screen, sun glasses, headache tablets, plenty of small
notes for tipping, map, business card for the hotels etc. you are staying
(in case you get lost!), camera, tissues, mobile phone. Other items you
might consider would be a small torch, pens for children you may want to
give gifts to, a small, folding umbrella (especially in summer months), a
disinfectant spray for cuts & grazes and some plasters,
A small spray bottle (empty perfume bottle, well washed out is usually good
size to carry in handbag or even in man's pocket) which you can keep
refilling with cold water could turn out to be your best friend! If you use
a little fan to cool down your face you will actually get hotter because
your body is getting the message that your face is colder than the rest of
your body while a spray of water gives you instant relief and acts the same
as your body when it sends moisture to your skin to cool you down.
OTHER ITEMS YOU MAY NEED
Power Converter and electrical socket adapters. Egypt
uses 2-prong round pinned sockets and the voltage is 220.
Camera which works without flash (flash not allowed in some places)
Travel Alarm Clock, Hairdryer, Ear-Plugs!
TRANSPORT - CARS, TRAINS &
PLANES
Travel by tourists between towns in Egypt by car, taxi or private bus is now
permitted without having to travel by convoy (except maybe Aswan to Abu
Simbel). Travel by train is allowed for tourists but not all trains.
Tourists can travel on the public buses between towns in Egypt, unless there
is political unrest or the police suspect it may not be safe.
SLEEPER TRAINS IN EGYPT
- www.sleepingtrains.com is the website of the Abela Egypt company that runs
the sleeper trains. From the website it looks as if you can reserve your
tickets with them online or by phone. Not so.......they rarely, if ever,
answer the phone, reply to an email or fax. To be sure of your ticket you
should go to Ramses Train Station (not far from the Egyptian Antiquities
Museum on Tahrir Sq) as soon as you arrive in Cairo and purchase your
ticket. You will need your passports and $60 per person. You could also try
asking your hotel or an agent to purchase sleeper train tickets in advance
(not always possible). You would have to fax them a copy of your passports.
Most will charge a fee of around $20 for doing this.
NON-SLEEPER TRAINS IN EGYPT
- www.egyptrail.gov.eg for information on non-sleeper trains. It is usually
not possible to buy these tickets before the departure day. Tourists are
not allowed travel the day train from Cairo to Luxor.
INTERNAL FLIGHTS IN EGYPT
www.egyptair.com.eg is open for online booking of flights, but not less than
2 days in advance. However, you can book last minute flights on Egypt Air
through www.expedia.com Do remember to print out your confirmation because
security may not let you pass into the airport without this. You will be
sent to the Egypt Air office in the airport for them to print it out for you
if you don't have it. Make sure you confirm your flights 24 hours beforehand
(and sometimes it is not a bad idea to confirm just before you leave for the
airport, it may save you being stuck there for hours if your flight is
cancelled!)
LUXOR TRANSPORT
You can go anywhere in Luxor on the public minibus (arrabeya) for only
50piastres. This is carried out in a very trusting way....the passengers
simply pass the money to the person in front who passes it up the bus to the
bus driver!
The bridge between the East & West Bank in Luxor is closed to tourists from
6pm to 6am so all tourists staying on the East Bank who go sightseeing on
the West Bank must be back across the bridge by 6pm unless they want to
travel on the ferry which operates all night and on which there are no
restrictions.
The ferry between East & West Bank in Luxor is 1LE for tourists.
TAXI & CALESH (Calesh
is a horse-drawn open carriage).
- Always agree the price BEFORE you get in. If doing a return journey
BE CLEAR on the TOTAL price of the journey.
- Take the time to ensure you have all your belongings out of the taxi
BEFORE you pay.
- Try to have the exact amount handy and pass it in the window. Since
you have previously been clear about the fare take you belongings and
walk away after paying. DO NOT look back...this signals you are willing
to pay more if he has a problem with what you gave him. Taxi prices in
Luxor are much higher than in Cairo, not just for tourists - but for
Egyptians also. This sometimes confuses and upsets people who have
mastered the art of getting around Cairo in a taxi and come to Luxor and
feel they are being ripped off in their first taxi ride!
If hiring a calesh to tour be clear BEFORE you get in how long the ride
is, where it goes, and the total cost for the calesh NOT per person and in
which currency.
If you want to help the horses:
Many people get upset and angry about the condition and treatment of
animals here. If you want to help I would suggest the following:
-
Choose a calesh where the
driver does not have a whip
-
Choose a calesh where the
horse looks in good condition (any sore spots....look at the
legs...any rope chaffing)
- TELL the driver you don't want
the horse beaten or whipped and you are not in a hurry!
-
TELL the calesh driver you are
refusing that it is because his horse is not well, looks sick
etc. this takes time and patience
If enough people do the above long
and often enough the drivers will get the message because it is
affecting their pockets.
TUMMY BUG - PHARAOH'S REVENGE!
Going to Egypt and worried about getting Tummy Bug? Forget about bringing
medicine from home. If you feel you are starting an upset tummy.......a
product called "Antinal" available from all pharmacies in Egypt without
prescription is the best answer. One or two tablets should set you right
within a couple of hours. Stop at the first pharmacy you pass on arrival in
Luxor/Aswan or find one on your first walk-about in Cairo, and buy a packet
of Antinal - once you are prepared for it and have lost the fear of getting
the bug you will most likely never need to use the Antinal!
The big mistake that most people make is thinking it will pass.....it
probably won't because it will become your main focus of attention along
with the fear of not being able to get to a toilet in time if you leave the
hotel etc! All the hotels and cruise ships' reception areas will be happy to
supply you free of charge........I repeat......the secret to a quick
recovery is acting in time. If you have ingested a bad bacteria you will
have to take a specific type of antibiotic. Drinking lots of water will not
wash it out! And "Antinal" is specific for bacteria problems in Egypt etc.
Symptoms I know I
need Antinal when I get a combination of some or all of the following and
the symptoms gradually worsen (but I don't wait too long....usually about 3
hours is enough for me to tell)
- I get a general feeling of not feeling well
- bloated, squish feeling in my stomach/bowel area
- feel of nausea
- stomach cramps,
- hot or cold sweats
- feel like I have a virus
- no energy
- want to sleep
- diarrohea
- vomiting
Differentiate between upset
tummy and food poisoning due to bacteria.
We are all individual and different so here are some of the things that CAN
give SOME people upset tummy as opposed to food poisoning:
- Too much carbonated drinks such as coca-cola, pepsi, fanta drunk in
the sun/heat.
- Taking iced drinks in the sun and/or too soon after coming in from
the sun/heat. Internal body temp. will be hotter than you are used to
and suddenly drinking in iced cold water or other beverages puts it into
shock, resulting in tummy upset. Wait at least 30 mins. Drinking tepid
water (from the bottle you have carried all day in the heat!) will
quench your thirst and rehydrate you which is very important!
- Cold showers after coming in from the sun also shocks your system.
It is cooling down the body exterior while the core temp remains hot.
Wait at least 30 mins or take a warm shower.
- Drinking too much alcohol in the heat/sun - cold beer doesn't seem
to have as bad an effect as drinking spirits in the sun.
- Many tourists push themselves too hard in high temperatures they are
not used to - travelling from one place to another and attempting to see
and experience everything in a short time can result in the body
crashing and demanding rest...sometimes the first symptom is an unwell
feeling in the stomach.....listen to your "gut feeling"!
- Eating food you are not used to eating.
Sources of food poisoning
other than food...... if you want to get really paranoid!
- TOUCHING ANYTHING ANYWHERE INDOORS!!! (most structures such as hand
rails that are in the sun are unlikely to have surface bacteria on them)
- Money
- Toilet flushers
- Door handles
- Hand-shakes! Everyone in Egypt wants to shake your hand!
- Wiping the sweat from your face with hands that have picked up
something such as money then maybe licking your lips!
Get the Antinal as soon as you arrive in Egypt (around 8 LE for a packet)
and take anti-bacterial wipes or little bottles of anti-bacterial hand wash
with you - THEN relax and enjoy the good food available - happy in the
knowledge that you have the remedy in your bag should you BEGIN to
experience tummy discomfort.
It would be a shame to miss out on sampling Egyptian food because you are
afraid of something that MIGHT happen!
SHOPPING
CAIRO - More or less all shops have fixed,
marked prices (but in Arabic so learn you numbers before going
shopping). The markets or souks such as Khan El Khalili do not have
fixed, marked prices so you have to be very good at bargaining!
Talaat Harb St. for shoes and men's clothing. Kasr El Nil St. for
ladies' clothing and the many streets off them comprise the shopping
district known as "Downtown Cairo" (starts from Tahrir Sq where the
Antiquities Museum is.).
LUXOR, ASWAN and most other places may have
some shops with fixed marked prices but many have not and the markets or
souks are all places you have to bargain.
BEWARE
when walking in the streets, especially in Luxor and Aswan of any guy
running after you offering to take you to the market or who attaches
himself to you and stands beside you when you are looking at or going
into a shop....he is chancing his arm by conning the shopkeeper in
believing he has brought the shop a customer. These guys are normally
aggressive when crossed or challenged and it is not worth the hassle to
the shopkeeper to argue with this guy so he will hand over some of your
purchase money to him. Better for you to get rid of your helper, guide
or friend before going into any shop!
Even though the shops will accept US, Canadian and
Australian dollars as well as English Pound and Euros if you are bargain
hunting you don't want to lose on the exchange rate (as shops and market
places will not give you bank rate) so make sure you have Egyptian
pounds before going shopping
TIPPING
TIPPING IN EGYPT
causes problems for many Europeans who are not
accustomed to tipping. To put it in context - I think most religions in
the world encourage what is called "tithing" (look
here for explanation).
Basically it describes giving one tenth of your wealth to those less
fortunate. This practice operates in Egypt under the guise of tipping
and is practiced by the Egyptians themselves so it is not just something
expected of tourists. There is no unemployment assistance or Social
Welfare of that kind here in Egypt so tipping (or tithing) if you want
to look at it that way is extremely important here.
During the Iraqi war
when tourism was hit badly here was when I became aware of this.
Everyone was in trouble and everyone was tipping those less fortunate -
down to the neighbour's child who ran to the shops on an errands for
people - 25 or 50 piastres bought a bag of crisps (in the western world
we may not consider this proper nourishment but a packet of crisps is
potatoes cooked in oil.....nourishment!)
Wages (where they
exist) are very low. In the tourism industry everyone, starting from
the outside travel agents down the chain to the hotels and tour
operators are competing on price for a slice of a small cake. In Luxor
I think most of the hotels are half empty most of the year. In the
summer months this is painfully (for those of us working here) most
evident. Bottom of the chain are the people who actually do the
physical work taking care of the tourist - hotel/restaurant staff,
drivers, guides, baggage handlers, laundry workers, temple guards &
caretakers.
Tourists to Egypt can feel "under siege" on the subject of Tips &
Baksheesh. I don't know if there is a difference in the arabic language
but I use these two words to make a distinction in my own mind. For me
"TIPS" is what I give someone who has done a service for me. Whereas
"Basksheesh" is when someone is asking me for money for nothing - which
I don't subscribe to as I believe it breeds a "begging culture". I have
great respect for the women and children I see on the streets selling
tissues - they are desperate for money but want to keep what is left of
their dignity - not easy if you are a mother who doesn't know where
tonight's supper is coming from.
Tips....Feel
good if you can afford it
about being nice to someone who has been nice to you, but is nowhere
near you in wealth terms, no matter how poor you may perceive yourself
to be! The tip, if not included in money you are handing over for a
service, should be folded in the palm of the hand and quietly passed in
the handshake while expressing your thanks. Some Egyptians consider it
good manners to quietly decline the tip once or twice so it is
considered good manners on your part to insist (with sincere thanks).
This specially applies to people with whom you have spent some time in
the course of your journey and now consider you their friend. The
"genuinely nice" workers who have done something nice or helpful for you
because it is their natural good nature (not just in hopes of a tip)
will thank you for the tip and put it in their pocket without even
looking at it.
If you
have been invited to someone's home for a
meal they will have pulled out all the stops to impress you .... if the
meal contained meat, they may have spent their money on meat specially
for you as Egyptians do not normally buy meat everyday....too
expensive. If you want to give your Egyptian friends a present it
should be something they will use, maybe something outside their normal
price range or something that cannot be got in Egypt.
If someone
is ungrateful for the tip, offer to take it
back ... not increase it! This will only happen with "professional tip
extractors"!!! (my phrase). If you give this guy a thousand pounds it
will not be enough...forget about him, walk away. He is doing this
because in his experience this attitude usually succeeds in making the
tourist feel guilty and putting his hand in his pocket again and
again! Don't feel guilty and don't give more!
Enjoy the
tipping experience for the good feeling it
gives you when you do it in the right places with the right people,
knowing you have made someone's day brighter and know that it will come
back to you increased!
A few years ago I took my sons and grand-daughter on a Nile cruise. The
highlight of my younger son's experience was the look on people's faces
when he tipped them over the norm expected. To this day it is his best
memory of Egypt - making an instant difference in the lives of the
people who were making his holiday comfortable and enjoyable.
Guidelines
to Tipping Amounts: At the end of the day
tipping is at your discretion.....but the following are guidelines to
usual tip amounts expected:
Porter or Baggage Handler 2 - 5LE
Housekeeping 15 - 20LE per day minimum..
Pool Attendant 20LE (at the beg.of your stay will ensure
you get your bed & towel!)
Restaurant Waiter 10%
Toilet Attendant 1LE
Guardians at sites 5LE if showing something interesting.
Hotel/Cruise Reception 20 LE min. this is where you get
most info..
Hotel/Cruise Crew 30LE per day - this is divided among
ALL crew/staff but not managers. If the manager has been especially
helpful to you a tip of around 20 - 40LE would be appreciated.
Sightseeing Guide 50LE per day pp or per couple minimum
Bus Drivers Tours 30LE per day pp or per couple minimum.
(If you are with small group - the big coach drivers expect about 5 LE
per person per trip).
As a rule - taxi drivers, calesh or fellucca captains do not get tips,
except the meter driven taxis in Cairo - they will be tough enough on
the fare they charge you! Exception might be the "monkey" boy who does
the hard work up and down the fellucca sails.
CULTURAL & LINGUISTIC
MISUNDERSTANDINGS
A jewellery shop in Luxor - an American tourist has decided on a ring he
would like to buy and all is going well .........that is until he asks if it
is possible for the jeweller to cover the ring in gold - it's a silver ring.
He wants a silver/gold ring that has been made in Egypt for himself (some
special significance for him to have the two metals combined). The jeweller
is getting more upset and defensive by the minute because he thinks the
customer is accusing him of trying to pawn off silver as white gold. At the
same time the American, is getting increasingly frustrated at his own
inability to make the jeweller understand what he wants and is bewildered by
the emotional behavior of the man behind the counter.......they had been
getting along so well until now!
The conversation gets more intense and heated by the second. Neither is
aware that the conversation has now taken a turn for the worse, and become
two different conversations - because each one is so intent on getting his
own point of view across that neither one is
REALLY listening to the other!
The jeweller is an acquaintance of mine and I decide to intervene. When I
pointed out what was happening everyone had a laugh about it and the
situation was resolved.
You don't have to be two different nationalites for this to happen but in
Egypt it is what happens most of the time. It happens me every single day. I
have more misunderstandings with my staff, with Egyptian tradesmen, with
Egyptian professionals, (not to mention my neighbours and government
officials) than there are debates in the United Nations Assembly!
Visitors to Egypt should be aware (if they want to enjoy an easy passage)
that they are now coming up against more than one culture which is new to
them. There is the Muslim Religious Culture, the Egyptian National Culture
and for those coming to Luxor and Aswan there is the "Upper Egypt" Culture.
Just because there are five star hotels, nice shops and Egyptians dressing
in western style clothes who
APPARENTLY
speak English, French and even Japanese does not mean the Egyptians
and the foreign visitors are going to understand each other at all. However,
for the most part both sides are blissfully unaware that they are neither
listening nor responding to each other despite the verbal exchanges taking
place.
I have lived in Luxor (Upper Egypt!!) for 8 years. I get personally involved
in verbal battles of my own probably 10 times a day. But it is only now that
I am beginning to appreciate how much our cultural differences are
responsible for so many problems between tourists. foreign residents and the
local Egyptians and we, also are (not so blisfully) unaware of this.
We do not understand the differences in our ways of doing business., and
when we see the differences we (foreigners) can't understand why the
Egyptians are not conducting their business the way we do - boy does this
lead to frustration! We do not understand that our laws are different, we
cannot for the most part comprehend the Egyptian legal system at all! We do
not understand how our attitudes differ in regards to food (and I don't mean
the menu!), sex, love, marriage, children, life, death, morality. Our
differences in social etiquette, manners of speech - for instance I once
remarked to an Egyptian that I thought God must be playing a joke on me - he
was genuinely shocked that I could have such a thought, let alone give voice
to it!
All these cultural differences, plus visitors and Egyptians
assuming there is
not much of a difference, plus the fact that 75% of Egyptians in Upper Egypt
do not REALLY speak or understand
English. I am assuming it is the same for other languages.
They
do not understand English in any context outside of the subject they
normally use it for i.e selling in the shop, market or bazaar,
guiding in the temples, serving in the hotels etc.
Advice to tourists in Egypt re communication:
- Ask the question 3 times - second and third time...look intently
into the eyes of the person you are speaking with. - I am not trying to
be smart or funny here!
- LISTEN very carefully to the answer.
- Repeat the answer you got just to be sure you understood it.
- Be patient, friendly and smile......the Egyptians are always
smiling!
I have so many bridges to rebuild....bridges that I burned between myself
and people who really meant no harm....all due to cultural as well as verbal
misunderstandings between us....but as least I know now!
LOSING YOUR HEAD!
There is something in the air in Egypt that
is wonderful! It makes many, many people lose their heads! It never
ceases to amaze me how many tourists do things here they would never,
ever do at home like:
....................Being persuaded by a
perfect stranger who is a taxi driver, calesh driver, fellucca man,
guide, shop assistant or just some "really nice guy I met in the street"
to forget about going where they were just on their way to.....and
follow him! (Maybe some distant genetic relationship to the famous man
who said "Follow Me and I will make you........!" Millions have followed
Him!)
Anyway, it happens on a daily basis here.
Foreigners come and end up being led around by the nose by their new
"friends" They are guided by them as to where to sleep, eat, shop. Some
are even guided into buying or sending presents, helping them
financially with their businesses or giving money to start businesses,
paying for their children's education, their family's healthcare, buying
land, paying for building projects, long term apartment rentals and even
marriage.
All this with people they did not even know a
week ago!???? Definitely something in the air. If someone could figure
out how to package it he would make a fortune!
KEEP YOUR HEAD and enjoy this wonderful,
beautiful country. Take it all with a smile and a pinch of salt!
HOTELS/HOSTELS
When booking your accommodation
check out the facilities available e.g. if you are not very mobile does the
accommodation have a lift?
If booking online or through an
agent from a travel brochure look carefully at the photos - do they look
like they were taken in the 80's? In relation to hotels in Egypt, especially
Cairo if the photos show outdated furniture and design it is quite likely
that neither the beds nor the cleaning in that hotel is up to much either.
For Cairo $40 - $50 per person per night seems to be the dividing line
between rather grotty accommodation and cleaner, more comfortable
accommodation. If you read hotel reviews online you will notice that dirt
is a more prominent complaint in the price range below $50 per night.
When reading reviews on websites
remember the person writing the review might not have the same preferences
you have! The things that make a good review for him/her might not be
important for you, whereas the absence of things that are important to you
might not have even been noticed by that particular writer.
If phoning your hotel before
booking it make sure the person on the phone understands your questions! I
once called a hotel to book a room and ASSUMED my reservation was being
taken because the person at the other end of the phone was giving the
appropriate "yes" and "no" answers. I arrived at the hotel to find no
reservation and was told that the person had been the cleaner who answered
the phone in passing and spoke virtually no English!!!
You should call the day before you
arrive to confirm your arrival time and booking...ESPECIALLY in Cairo. If
you don't you may arrive to find you have no room, especially if you are
arriving in the middle of the night. Many places hedge their bets by giving
the rooms to people who just show up because so many people who make
bookings do not actually turn up (often persuaded to go with touts, tour
guides or "friends" they meet along the way who tell them they can help them
do better). If you have done your homework and chosen the place you want to
stay don't be easily persuaded to change....remember taxi drivers and
"friendly helpers" are going to be paid commission for bringing you (no
matter how friendly you have become, it is still just business to them)
It is usually best to arrange to be
picked up by the hotel from the train or plane....at least you will be sure
to arrive at your destination as quickly as possible!
Fly Spray
Take a fly spray (4LE in most pharmacies and some
grocery shops) especially if you are staying in Cairo hotels otherwise just
one little ol' mosquito at night may drive you nuts and give you a face that
looks like you have measles!
Day Use of Swimming Pool
Most of the big hotels allow people from
outside to use their pool facilities for a daily rate (different rates,
different hotels)
Accommodation Law
Under Egyptian law it is not permitted for a foreigner
(of either sex) to share accommodation in hostel, hotel or rented flat with
an Egyptian (of either sex). Marriage Licences are required at registration
and if a hotel, hostel or apt. landlord is found to have allowed this there
are severe consequences. Places of Accommodation are required to present a
copies of their guests to the police on a daily basis and have their
premises open for inspection at any time.
Safety
Especially if you are travelling by yourself it is a
good idea to let the hotel reception or somebody know where you are going
and what time you should be back. Although Egypt is, in my opinion,
probably one of the safest places in the world, you should be as careful
here as you would at home......going off with new friends you meet on
holidays without telling anyone where and who you are going with is not a
good idea. It may also be an idea to leave information in your luggage and
in your wallet (I know it is on your passport) about who to contact in an
emergency. Before you leave home make sure you give someone your itinerary
and the contact numbers of the places you intend to stay. It is a good idea
to arrange to check in with your family every few days via phone or email
MOBILE PHONE
Bringing your mobile is a good idea
but go to your local mobile phone store and check that your phone is
unblocked for roaming in Egypt. You can also get your phone unblocked
before your leave home to take an Egyptian SIM card which you can buy for
around 10LE and the top up cards are from 10LE to 100LE. I think buying an
Egyptian SIM card is the best way to go because it allows you to phone
taxis, your hotel/accommodation etc. etc. and gives you independence.
TOURS - hidden
costs/possible pitfalls
TEMPLES & TOMBS ....Entry fees ...are they
included in the price? When comparing tour operator prices remember to
compare the length of time you will spend in each place.....you could be
racing around so fast your trip becomes just a passing blurrrrrrrrrr! For
example click here!
Take a flashlight because some of the
places are dark and it is difficult to see some carvings.
FOOD.........Is it included in the price....
lunch, dinner, drinks, How much is this likely to cost you?
GUIDE....Is the guide a transfer guide or
Egyptologist guide?
LUXOR....West Bank Tours...what sites are
actually included in the tour?
INTERNAL FLIGHTS....if part of your
itinerary are they included in the price?
OVERNIGHT TRAIN...if this is part of the
itinerary......do you get a bed or are you going to be sitting up or even in
a reclining chair for anything from 9 to 14 hours? If it is reclining
seat...can you upgrade to a cabin with a bed and how much is it? Be aware
that the trains can run up to 3 hours late.
TRANSFERS....which are included and which
are extra?.........Examine the timing of your transfers and if you are going
to have sufficient rest time before sightseeing or are you doing something
like getting off a sleeper train and heading off on a day of sightseeing
that is going to let you exhausted.....e.g. you could find you have got up
early in Aswan to fly to Abu Simbel...delighted that you are then flying
direct to Cairo/Luxor..only to find yourself sitting in a plane for an hour
or so in Aswan/Luxor waiting for more passengers to board the plane. This
could mean you had breakfast at 5 or 6 am and are not going to eat a decent
meal again until around 4 or 5pm....a journey that ensures exhaustion and
high stress levels! But at least if you know this is going to happen you
can be prepared and take some food and extra drinks with you.
BALLOON RIDE....how long are you actually
going to be in the air and how far is your balloon going to travel? What is
the safety record of the company?
GIZA .. the Pyramids........many tours
advertise a trip to the Giza Plateau....and this is exactly what it says it
is.....a trip to the plateau where you have to get off the bus and go buy
your own Pyramid tickets and your own tickets to see the Solar Boat. There
are 3 Pyramids and usually there is a restriction on the number of people
allowed into the Great Pyramid (the one you usually see on TV which has the
Kings and Queens Chambers. To avoid disappointment do your research on this
and clarify especially regarding timing, what's included, not included
OPTIONAL EXTRAS...tours or activities...what
are they and how much will they cost? If this is you first and last trip to
Egypt you want to make sure you have enough money to cover any optional
extras to avoid disappointment.
TIPPING...who are you expected to tip and
how much?
INTERNET ACCESS
All the big hotels have internet
access, computers and wi-fi. However, if you need a lot of internet time it
might be an idea to check before you book whether it is free or chargeable.
Some hotels charge quite a lot for access. The Internet Shops in the street
vary from 5 to 10 LE per hour - but as tourist to avoid problems when paying
you should always check the price first.
LOOKING FOR
"SPECIAL EXPERIENCE" IN THE TEMPLES?
Over the years I had been coming to Egypt and especially since I
came to live here in 2003 I had become curious about the actual
people whom we refer to as the “Ancient Egyptians” (Even in school
I could not remember any history we were taught unless I heard a
story or read a book that made the people and events of history more
real to me!).
And so it has come to pass (as all good storytellers would say!!)
that I have accumulated quite a collection of stories about the
Pharaohs and their Queens, the Priests/Priestesses, the Ancient or
“Shining Ones” as they are sometimes called, and some of the
“ordinary folk” . I have read, researched and eventually come to my
own conclusions as to what was logically possible and probable,
given the evidence presented by various authors, historians (as
opposed to the “pure” Egyptologists) etc. and so , now. I have some
interesting and unique stories to tell…..many of which are totally
unfamiliar to most of the guests who have stayed at Mara House to
date.
Schwaller de Lubitz suggested that we look at the Egyptian Temples
through the eyes of children, see the carvings and paintings as a
child would see them, weave our stories around them and be open to
receiving “insights” through them about our individual selves and
our own personal journeys on this 3 dimensional place known as
“EARTH” -( Take the “H” at the end of EARTH and place it at the
front of the word and you get……HEART.) The English language holds
more meaning, mystery, symbolism and answers than most of use see,
even when it is written clearly in front of us……so let’s be simple
children when we try to read the Temple writings….if we can’t see
the complexity and, at the same time the obvious simplicity of
“English” we definitely should “keep it simple” when it comes to
Egypt!!!
Both Schwaller and I suggest you visit the Temples and ask the
question “What does this place mean to me?”
Look at the carvings as a child would and they will “trigger” stuff
in you that you, most likely, are not even aware of! Welcome to
Egypt - where the past, present and future become one! I hope you
find the ancient Pharaohs, their people and the messages they left
carved in stone as fascinating, interesting, mysterious and still
relevant to us today as I do!
